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Winter 2016 Guide to Paris

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Paris rang in the New Year with a multitude of exciting events, starting with the long-awaited reopening of the legendary Musée Rodin. With Valentine’s Day approaching, now is an ideal time to take advantage of low winter fares for an amorous weekend at one of Paris’s new hotels, with dinner in a gourmet bistro to experience what the City of Lights does best: romance.

Museums and Exhibtions

Musee Rodin

Not since Rodin lived and worked here has the graceful Hotel Biron received a facelift of this magnitude. Saved from demolition by the artist when he moved his studio here in 1908, the former convent became so integral a backdrop for Rodin’s work that he bequeathed his entire output to France on the condition his work remain at the Hotel Biron. Now, after a $17.4 million renovation, the gorgeously restored Musée Rodin features the sculptor’s rarely seen early paintings, his private art collection, and sculptures by his famous pupil and lover, Camille Claudel, along with all the masterpieces of his oeuvre.

The Centre Pompidou’s ambitious Anselm Kiefer show (through April 18) is the German artist’s first French retrospective in 30 years, and features 150 works on paper, monumental paintings, some 40 glass “display cases,” and a site-specific installation all around the themes of alchemy and the Kabala, destruction, and rejuvenation. The artist, who has lived in Paris since 1992, looks at the recent events in France and Europe through the lens of German romanticism, evident in the melancholy grandeur of these beautiful, penetrating works.

Ai Wei Wei in Paris

Chinese artist Ai Weiwei’s largest exhibition to date in Paris appears at Le Bon Marché, the left bank’s chic department store, until February 20. This fantastical series of mythological creatures, handmade with the help of 12 Chinese kite-makers from bamboo and white silk, were constructed with the age-old techniques. Titled Child’s Play, the three-part show fills the outside windows in front with 10 vignettes, and inside the store 20 glorious creatures—including a many-headed dragon, a winged fish, and menacing birds—soar above the store’s central lobby. A 65-foot-long dragon guards the main floor.

Pablo Picasso, the most influential artist of the 20th century, made an indelible mark on the artists who followed him, many of whom grappled with his influence as a mentor and artistic father. Insightful, fascinating, and often hilarious, the beautifully articulated show Picasso.mania, at the Grand Palais through February 29, juxtaposes Picasso’s emblematic works with those of contemporary artists (Johns, Lichtenstein, Hockney, and many more) illustrating the pervasive influence of all of Picasso’s great stylistic phases in almost every medium, including painting, photography, film, video, installation, and graphic arts.

Beginning March 8, the Musée Picasso examines the diversity of the master’s sculptural works and the creation process from drawings, prints and photographic enlargements to the original finished sculptures. The exhibition, titled Picasso. Sculpture, reunites seminal works from several sculptural series spanning decades of the artist’s output, including “Absinthe Glasses” and “Bathers.”

Fairs and Festivals

Taste of Paris

Following the huge success of the first iteration in 2015, this year’s Taste of Paris (February 11–14) will once again offer a rare opportunity to taste the gastronomic creations of Paris’s great Michelin-starred chefs from the city’s top tables—Alain Ducasse from the Plaza Athénée, Guy Savoy, Lucas Carton, Le Pré Catalan, and many more. Entry is €15 or you can splurge on a Gourmet Pass (€45) or Premium Pass (€120), which includes jump-the-line privilege, access to the champagne bar, and €45 in food credits (dishes cost between €6–€12).

Foodies unite at the annual Omnivore Food Festival (March 6–8) dedicated to “young cuisine.” The Paris-based organization, with its own publication and yearly awards, tours the world discovering new talent and celebrating young chefs’ contributions to the world of gastronomy. This year, the festival will feature a series of demonstrations titled Sweet & Savory, Street Food, Artisan, and Avant-Garde.

One day a year, the capital’s top pastry makers offer their own special versions of Paris’s favorite sweet, the delectable almond-based macaron, either free with a purchase or two for the price of one. Jour du Macaron (March 20) is a great opportunity to see what all the fuss is about. Hint: don’t miss Pierre Hermé. A percentage of the proceeds go to charity.

From March 4–6 the Grande Halle of La Villette hosts the Mondial du Tatouage, where the world’s greatest tattoo artists converge for this unique event, featuring exhibits, contests, concerts, DJ sets, food trucks, and around-the-clock tattooing. Watch the tattooist at work or take the opportunity to get inked by a top international artist.

New Hotels

Terrass Hotel

Named for a splendid seventh-floor terrace with panoramic views of Paris spread out before you, the new Terrass Hotel has just reopened after a sleek top-to-toe renovation. First opened in 1911, this architectural gem, inspired by the artists of Montmartre, stays true to its graceful bones, beautifully highlighted in shades of dove gray, brown and beige with splashes of brilliant color. Complete with a restaurant and bar (with spectacular views), a wellness center, fitness room and library, being away from it all has never been so relaxing or so chic. Double rooms, some with private balconies, from €165.

Just steps from the Champs-Élysées on Paris’s famous Golden Triangle, this one-time home of the Marquis de Sers has been totally transformed, giving the historic Hôtel de Sers’ spacious rooms, restaurant, and bar a luxe contemporary look and a total update of its naturally gracious spaces and elegant finishes. Common areas and all of the hotel’s 45 glamorous rooms focus on natural materials—wood, stone, metal—and opulent fabrics. For utmost pampering, a full range of massages and beauty treatments are available in the privacy of your own room. Double rooms from €290.

Great New Eats

Steak frites

Daniel Rose, of the foodie-favorite Spring, once again dazzles in his newest endeavor, La Bourse et la Vie. Keeping the name only, Rose performed a Cinderella transformation on a classic Paris bistro, updating all the tropes in elegant versions—globe lighting, zinc bar, tile floor—and bringing his telltale flair to the beloved classic dishes. Succulent veal pot-au-feu, velvety house-made foie gras served on a bed of artichokes, and an unforgettable tête de veau with sauce ravigote are all worth the trip alone. A plate of the best gougères in Paris starts you off, and wise diners will not skimp on dessert: tarte tatin, mousse au chocolat, crème caramel. Come for breakfast (croissants, tartine, jambon persillé, coffee), lunch, or dinner and dine in haute bistro style.

After stints at in Copenhagen (Noma), London, and Tokyo, British chef Daniel Morgan showcases his love of meticulously sourced produce and the freshest seafood at Salt, serving dishes that are seemingly too delectable to be this healthy. Buckwheat spätzle of fermented cèpe mushrooms; steamed mussels with green dashi, cucumbers, and hot red pepper; roasted pumpkin with walnuts; and trout caviar and smoked trout are served with an excellent selection of natural wines or craft beer (like BapBap, brewed a few blocks away). The bright, streamlined space is a Paris hot spot, so be sure to reserve in advance.

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Paris’s 10 Best New Boutiques

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PHOTO: Roberta Valerio

The world’s most beautiful city, Paris also possesses the world’s most thrilling shopping, where famed international names mingle with small, made-in-France labels known only to Parisians and the privileged few. With exciting new boutiques opening all the time, it’s a challenge to keep up. Here we offer a black-book selection of ten of the newest must-sees—offering everything from luxury bags to gourmet delights—so you can shop Paris like a pro.

By Jennifer Ladonne

PHOTO: Chez Paulie and me…Paris

Paulie and me

The union between New Yorker Paul Chambel and Paris fashion veteran Lilia Chambel resulted in a beautiful two-year-old son and the exciting new concept store Paulie and me. A marriage of New York City cool and Parisian chic, the store is a handpicked treasure trove of young A-list designer clothes, bags, jewelry, shoes, accessories, and more.

Must-buy jewelry includes Clara Jasmine’s lace-print cuff bracelets, rings, and necklaces in 24-carat-gold-plated copper; delicate chain necklaces and bracelets by Sweety Jane; and Marion Godart’s sculptural, jewel-laden necklaces in brilliant colors. You’ll also find lightweight leather totes, super-stylish shoes by the Brazilian label Cavage (unique to the shop), and huge limited-edition scarves in featherweight cashmere by Maison Passage. Don’t miss the 50-percent-off corner!

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Roberta Valerio

L/Uniform

The mission is to elevate the humble canvas bag to the status of a fashion essential. L/Uniform’s gleaming new minimalist boutique, on the fashionable quai Malaquais, showcases the label’s classic collection of chic, streamlined bags in durable cotton-linen canvas. Light, sturdy, and fortified with colorful piping and leather handles, the bags—which range from laptop carriers to ample travel sizes—make an excellent alternative to leather and can be personalized with monograms and limitless colors.

The sleek No. 11 carryall can work as a market tote or a chic handbag, and the No. 2 schoolbag, a style favored by Parisian kids, is as adorable as it is versatile. You can choose from a range of canvas, piping, and monogram colors for variations that make the bag, manufactured artisanally in the beautiful perched village of Carcassonne in southern France, entirely your own.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Philippe HUGONNARD

Mesdemoiselles Madeleines

Though French to its tender core, the homey gateau immortalized by Proust has of late been upstaged by the flashy macaron. Thanks to Mesdemoiselles Madeleines, the buttery, shell-shaped sponge cake is making a comeback. Traditionally served nature or flecked with orange or a sprinkling of ground almonds, Mesdemoiselles Madeleines’ sophisticated versions come in more than three-dozen flavors—sweet, savory, or crowned with a cream-filled dome.

The teatime pastry is exciting enough to star at any meal. Take Apolline, flavored with grapefruit zest and a Sicilian pistachio-cream-filled dome, or Maxime, a mix of Rhône Valley raspberries lightly perfumed with Moroccan rose. Savory versions come in basil, lemon, and feta cheese topped with pignoli nuts or red onion and crème fraîche with chives. The cakes come in several sizes and can be purchased individually or mixed and matched.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Coutesy of Borgo delle Tovaglie

Borgo delle Tovaglie

Set in a soaring loft space in the city’s up-and-coming 11th arrondissement, on the edge of the upper Marais, the new home concept store Borgo delle Tovaglie reflects the neighborhood’s stylish boho vibe. A fabulous array of essentials for the home awaits you, including sheets, pillows, tablecloths, curtains, and other classic items in Borgo’s luscious Italian linen and dreamy seasonal colors: Caribbean blue, mint, stone, graphite, lavender, coral.

Both classic and contemporary, the store is an eclectic mix of old-world quality and up-to-date chic, with a collection of one-off lighting, unbreakable melamine dishes in yummy colors to harmonize with your table linens, and stylish printed throw pillows and rugs. The in-store café is a neighborhood favorite, the perfect spot for a plate of artisanal charcuterie and a glass of wine or an espresso and a homemade dessert.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Le Bon Marché

Le Bon Marché – Le Soulier

Your reasons for rushing to Le Bon Marché have just multiplied with the unveiling of the famous left-bank department store’s glamorous new Le Soulier shoe salon. The soaring new space, set under a nineteenth-century glass ceiling, highlights a list of crème-de-la-crème designers and plenty of new names to discover. Small salons dedicated to haute couture stars Chanel, Céline, Prada, Jimmy Choo, Valentino, Balenciaga, and Tods open out onto a floor space dressed with comfy modern sofas for maximum trying-on comfort.

The contemporary designer space offers the latest from Dries Van Noten, Lavin, Nicholas Kirkwood, Proenza Schouler, Chloé, and Givenchy, and the “creative spirit” section underscores edgy young designs from the likes of Markus Lupfer, Play Comme des Garçons, Golden Goose, Band of Outsiders, and Isabel Marant. It’s one-stop shoe shopping excellence.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Louboutin Cosmetics

Louboutin Cosmetics

Glamorous women can now match their talons to their soles—the famous fire engine-red immortalized by the designer’s mile-high stilettos is the star of his new boutique beauté. Set in the historic nineteenth-century covered passage Vero Dodat, where Christian Louboutin got his start, the tiny boutique resembles a shrine to the hallowed “Rouge Louboutin” along with thirty other high-fashion shades of nail polish.

The lacquer comes in a faceted jewel-like bottle with a gleaming 8-inch cap, the exact height of his famously vertiginous shoes. At €45 a bottle, it’s not cheap, but two layers of Louboutin’s gloss is said to equal twenty coats of the regular stuff. Think of it as an investment. The men’s and women’s shoe boutiques are right next-door for easy mixing and matching.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Verbreuil

Verbreuil

Opened in January, Verbreuil’s new jewel-box of a boutique, two steps from the Luxembourg Gardens, offers a gorgeous new take on the luxury handbag. Designed by a mother and her three daughters, the bags anticipate a chic Parisian’s every desire, combining elegance, sophistication, and staying power in each of the six ultra-sleek silhouettes. The bags’ timeless architecture has a vintage feel brought up to date with high-tech details meticulously engineered for the utmost beauty and functionality.

The Canoun, in crocodile with a buttery calfskin interior, has three pockets for day and a removable strap to seamlessly transform into an evening clutch. The streamlined Duo, Verbreuil’s take on the tote, is ample enough for a small computer or tablet, yet refined enough to go anywhere, anytime. Handcrafted in France by skilled artisans, the bags are small marvels of design know-how, combining top-quality skins (crocodile, python, calf) with a pared-down aesthetic that’s unmistakably luxe.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Jérôme Dreyfuss

Jérôme Dreyfuss

Jérôme Dreyfuss’s spirited handbags have graced the arms of chic Parisians since 2002. Though the designer introduced his shoe collection in spring 2013, his first boutique dedicated to shoes just opened in April, at 1 rue Jacob on the city’s storied left bank. In keeping with Dreyfuss’s signature bohemian chic outlook, the shoes run the gamut from high-glamour pumps in pretty flower-print toile to jaunty red suede moccasins and studded black suede booties with towering stilettos.

The flat Wanda sandal’s hippy-chic design is pure Dreyfuss: a braided-leather thong and cut-leather band that comes in five scrumptious colors, including orange, forest green, and pale pink. Sneakers in metallic python or tie-dyed lambskin are this season’s standouts. Match them with a bag from his flagship boutique across the street at No. 4.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Papier Tigre

Papier Tigre

For those who still relish putting pen to paper, Papier Tigre’s sophisticated and colorful take on stationary, cards, notebooks, and all things paper will bring joy to your heart. The Paris papeterie combines a fresh aesthetic with plenty of whimsy in cards with messages like bisous (kisses), original revolving calendars that list each month’s seasonal fruits and veggies in French and English, and a do-it-yourself family tree with apertures for four generations of photographs and slots for names and dates.

There’s also dreamy scented candles and sachets for closets, drawers, and suitcases by Kerzon, pens and notebooks by Moleskine, embroidered jewelry by Macon & Lesquoy, framed artwork, bags, and even nail polish. Its central location near Les Halles, the Centre Pompidou, and the lively rue de Montmartre shopping mecca make it a convenient place to drop in

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Pierre Luc Baron Moreau

Perrin

This fifth-generation glove-making family launched its first handbag collection in 2006 to resounding success. With the opening of a gorgeous new boutique in February, Perrin cinches its place as one of Paris’s most exciting small handbag and accessories brands. A stone’s throw from the Tuilerie Gardens, the opulent new boutique provides a fitting backdrop for a glamorous collection of ultra-contemporary clutches.

Fashioned in a variety of rainbow-hued leathers and fitted with bracelets or glove-like handles in leather or metal for better, well, clutching, the bags recall the company’s glove-making origins while confidently expressing their own flair. Irresistible models in fox fur or stingray complement even the most elegant outfit. If clutch bags aren’t your thing, check out the fabulous ball bag in sky-blue crocodile or the sleek Hobo Baggala in supple leather and a crocodile shoulder strap. There’s also a line of chic sunglasses and a delicious selection of buttery, handmade gloves in calf, crocodile, or goatskin.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

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Summer 2015 Guide to Paris

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Paris

Paris flings open its doors to an easy, breezy summer in its great urban landscape this season. City terraces, parks, and quayside spots are ideal for dining al fresco, picnicking over an outdoor concert or movie, walking, biking, or lounging on a green chair in the Luxembourg Gardens. Here’s a selection of events and activities en plein air to get you out both day and night.

Exhibitions

Dirty Corner by Kapoor

In summer’s must-see exhibit, English sculptor Anish Kapoor takes on Versailles’ formal gardens as his workspace, using the classical fountains and parterres in imaginative, surprising, and disorienting ways through five installations scattered throughout the landscape—including a fountain whirlpool and a stupendous Sky Mirror—and a sixth in the historic Jeu de Paume (through November 1).

While in the gardens, check out Escales dans les jardins de Versailles, featuring 80 artworks of the palace gardens created by people with autism.

Summer Festivals

Cinema en Plein Air

A roster of international musicians, actors, and dancers convene at quartier d’été, Paris’s most expansive summer arts festival (July 14–August 9), set in more than 30 indoor and outdoor venues around the city. On July 14, choreographer Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker’s Violin Phase (free), set to the music of Steve Reich, will be performed at the Saint-Eustach church.

The 24th edition of Classique au Vert (August 1–September 13), Paris’s premier outdoor classical music festival, held in the Bois de Vincennes’ exquisite Parc Floral, features world-class performers in more than fifteen open-air concerts. Picnic under the trees to the dulcet strains of the Ensemble Orchestra of Paris, Vincent Peirani, or the Pelléas Orchestra for a mere €6 admission to the park.

For more than 20 years, La Villette’s vast lawn has hosted Paris’s biggest movie screen in what has become a major summer event. This year, Cinéma en Plein Air will screen 25 films by the likes of Scorsese, Hitchcock, Miyazaki, and Polanski (many in English) for rapt moviegoers picnicking under the stars. Admission is €7; July 22–August 23.

Since 2003, Rock en Seine has been Paris’s most hotly anticipated rock festival, where the crème de la crème of rock talent convene in one of Paris’s most spectacular gardens. This year, more than 60 artists, including The Offspring, The Libertines, Marina and the Diamonds, The Chemical Brothers, and My Morning Jacket, will ignite five stages (August 28–30). Tickets sell out fast, so plan ahead!

Outdoor Dining

La 8 Iena

Michelin–starred chef Christophe Moret designed the menu at La 8 Iena, a stylish outdoor terrace in the heart of the beautiful Shangri-La hotel, where you’ll find a summery spread of fresh salads, plenty of vegetables, grilled meats, and refreshing drinks. Come for lunch, dinner, or a snack and a chilled glass of Champagne.

Attached to deeply hip concept store The Broken Arm, a bright little café excels in quick and delicious gourmet snacks, light meals, and very good coffee. A wide sidewalk terrace across from a charming Parisian park makes it a perfect outdoor stop while exploring the Marais.

Ralph's

On the leafy boulevard Saint-Germain, Ralph Lauren’s elegant boutique houses Paris’s prettiest outdoor garden café, Ralph’s, with a sophisticated menu to boot. Set among the splendid boutiques of the 6th and 7th arrondissements, it’s a great spot for a tranquil reprieve between shopping forays.

Prepare a Picnic

What are summers for if not for picnics? Grab a prepared meal on the go or find all the makings for your own al fresco feast. La Grande Épicerie is the city’s largest gourmet grocer and part of Le Bon Marché department store (7th arrondissement). Elsewhere, the newly opened La Maison Plisson is a thrilling way to sample the best of French regional delicacies, from fruit and veggies to charcuterie, cheese, pastries, and bread (Marais, 3rd arrondissement).

Outdoor Fun

There’s no time like summer to catch cool breezes off the water while taking in Paris’s top sights. Whether it’s day or night, a romantic candlelight dinner or fun with the kids, these companies offer an array of cruises to suit every taste. Vedettes du Pont Neuf offers a wide range of cruises with smaller boats and easy access. Bateaux-Mouches provides state-of-the-art tours from glass-enclosed boats, and the wonderful Batobus allows you to hop on and off at nine of the city’s top destinations all day long for €10 (€7 for kids).

Add sun and 5,000 tons of sand and you’ve got the thirteenth Paris Plages, the urban version of the Riviera on the Seine. Concerts, pop-up cafés, exercise classes, dance events, and more make for a dreamy summer on the beach.

In the beautiful Tuileries Garden, in the very heart of Paris, there’s summer fun for the whole family at the Fête Foraine des Tuileries (June 27–August 23). The carnival boasts more than 60 attractions including 20 different rides for kids of all ages, like the famous Ferris wheel and a French double-decker carousel.

Party at a Château

Chateau de Versailles' Grandes Eaux Nocturnes

For an unforgettable evening spent in unparalleled splendor, Vaux le Vicomte’s Candlelight Evenings illuminate the château and grounds with 2,000 candles. At evening’s end, visitors are treated to a spectacular fireworks display that can be viewed from the estate’s many glorious vistas. Visitors can also enjoy an elegant gourmet dinner on the terrace facing the château at Les Charmilles restaurant, or Champagne and macarons on the Terrasse du bénitier.

Along with the Château de Versailles’ Grandes Eaux Nocturnes, a spectacle of lights, color, and fireworks, the palace hosts a range of events incorporating music and dance. Les Nuits de l’Orangerie features a production of the ballet Romeo and Juliet, and the Sérénade Royal de la Galerie des Glaces recreates a Sun King-style ball complete with period music and costumes.

Attention Shoppers!

Let the hunting begin! The famous Paris soldes (sales) begin on June 24, when the grands magasins Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, and Le Bon Marché open their doors at 8 am sharp. Every boutique in Paris will be offering anywhere from 20–60 percent off retail prices.

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10 New Hot Spots in Paris

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PHOTO: Courtesy of Iwan Baan for Fondation Louis Vuitton / Iwan Baan 2014 – Gehry partners LLP

No matter how many times you’ve been there, Paris always feels timeless. But in recent years, the city has gone into high gear with a surprisingly robust slate of new openings that have altered the cultural landscape. With eye-catching performance spaces, cute boutiques, and must-visit restaurants and bars, the City of Light feels brighter than ever. If it’s been a while since your last visit to Paris, make sure you don’t miss these ten hot spots on your next trip.

By Kate Donnelly

PHOTO: AFP – C. Platiau

Philharmonie de Paris

Set inside the sprawling Parc de la Villette, Jean Nouvel’s ambitious Philharmonie de Paris opened earlier this year with a striking aluminum façade. Inside the new concert hall, world-class acoustics come courtesy of the work of leading opera designers Harold Marshall and Yasuhisa Toyota. The space, which seats 2,400, offers a wide range of programming, including performances by the resident Orchestre de Paris.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Maison Kitsuné

Maison Kitsuné

In the hip Upper Marais district, the popular fashion label Maison Kitsuné opened its largest Paris outpost in May on the Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire. Stocked with tees, totes and sweatshirts, the shop sits above an inviting 35-seat café with custom-made marble walls and a breezy California vibe. With floor-to-ceiling windows, the café’s rooms were inspired by the paintings of David Hockney.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Laurence Mouton

Guy Savoy

Earlier this year, Michelin-starred chef Guy Savoy moved his signature restaurant from a dark, modern space in the nineteenth arrondissement to a grand space—an intimate series of dining rooms with tall windows revealing stellar Louvre and Seine views—befitting his elegant cuisine. The earthy, artichoke soup with black truffle warrants special mention, as do roasted duck paletot with sweet, bitter, and peppery flavors; and a whole grilled sea bass.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Papier Tigre

Papier Tigre

For all things stationery, head to the minimalist boutique Papier Tigre, the brainchild of three young designers, near the Centre Pompidou. There’s a smartly curated stock of aesthetically pleasing goods, mostly made in France, including stationery, colorful patterned goods, often-changing collaborations with artists, calendars, gift wrap, decorative objects, postcards, scented candles and notebooks. We promise you’ll be inspired to write an actual letter by hand again.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Iwan Baan for Fondation Louis Vuitton / Iwan Baan 2014 – Gehry partners LLP

Fondation Louis Vuitton

In the lush Bois de Boulogne, legendary French fashion house Louis Vuitton opened a contemporary, Frank Gehry–designed structure made of twelve balloon-like glass “sails.” Inside, the Fondation Louis Vuitton’s permanent collection includes pieces from Rothko, Matisse, Koons, and Basquiat. In addition, there’s a rotating series of special exhibitions and a 350-seat auditorium for viewing performances and observing Ellsworth Kelly’s rainbow-colored stage curtain. Outside, get lost in the rooftop gardens overlooking the leafy park and, downstairs, take Instagram-worthy photos amongst Danish artist Olafur Eliasson’s cool mirrored columns.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Lockwood

Lockwood

Opened by the Lehoux brothers (the duo behind hip spots like Ten Belles), Lockwood starts its days as a coffee shop with wooden tables stocked with beans from local, artisanal roasters and an assortment of sweets. In the evenings, however, it transforms into a cozy cocktail bar that invites you to sip aperitifs, a wide range of whiskeys, and cocktails like the Penicillin (whiskey, honey, lemon, and ginger). Downstairs, rotating cocktails are mixed and paired neatly with easy-going dry meat platters, hamburgers, and quesadillas.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts

Le 8 Iéna at Shangri-La Hotel

At the elegant Shangri-La Hotel Paris, under the helm of new executive chef Christophe Moret, a seasonal outdoor courtyard called Le 8 Iéna is a great place to spend an afternoon. Inside this hidden spot, sip refreshing cocktails with small plates that include bright salads (think classic niçoise) and light French and Asian dishes like beef and chicken satay. Under Moret’s helm, there’s a range of lovely vegetarian options including green-pea carpaccio and of course, everything pairs well with a sparkling flute of Champagne or crisp Sancerre.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Danielle Rubi

Hero

Three-level Korean food haven and canteen Hero (you can’t miss the pink-neon signage) is outfitted with natural wood, handcrafted lanterns, hand-painted wallpaper, and a freshly minted outdoor terrace. The menu includes crispy fried chicken (yangnyeom) with one of three sauces that range in heat, fluffy pork buns, a roasted pork-rib sandwich, and kimchi macaroni and cheese. On the drinks list, there are natural wines and cocktails made with homemade lemongrass syrup, fresh-squeezed lime juice, and the Korean beer Hite. Later, you can opt for shots of soju.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Steel Cyclewear and Coffee Shop

Steel Cyclewear and Coffee Shop

On a quiet, discreet street in the eleventh arrondissement, the grown-up bicycle shop (from the in-the-know founder of the French-English lifestyle magazine Steel) allows both amateur and advanced cyclers to meet for group rides. Afterwards, the niche storefront becomes an extended place to sip specialty coffee and snack on lemon poppy cake and breakfast muesli. The airy, light-filled space offers a bevy of stylish gear like helmets and clothing from around the globe.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Palais Galliera; Photo by Di Messina

Palais Galliera

The city’s most fashion-forward museum, Palais Galliera, Musée de la Mode, emerged from an extensive makeover in September 2013 that made it more stylish than ever. Only open during temporary exhibitions, the grand structure was formerly the nineteenth-century palace of Marie Brignole-Sale, Duchess of Galliera. Popular past exhibitions have focused on costume design, fashion history and iconic French designers including Jeanne Lanvin and Azzedine Alaïa. This November will see the opening of a show dedicated to Elisabeth, Countess Greffulhe, an icon of the Belle Époque through the Roaring Twenties.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

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