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10 New Hot Spots in Paris

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PHOTO: Courtesy of Iwan Baan for Fondation Louis Vuitton / Iwan Baan 2014 – Gehry partners LLP

No matter how many times you’ve been there, Paris always feels timeless. But in recent years, the city has gone into high gear with a surprisingly robust slate of new openings that have altered the cultural landscape. With eye-catching performance spaces, cute boutiques, and must-visit restaurants and bars, the City of Light feels brighter than ever. If it’s been a while since your last visit to Paris, make sure you don’t miss these ten hot spots on your next trip.

By Kate Donnelly

PHOTO: AFP – C. Platiau

Philharmonie de Paris

Set inside the sprawling Parc de la Villette, Jean Nouvel’s ambitious Philharmonie de Paris opened earlier this year with a striking aluminum façade. Inside the new concert hall, world-class acoustics come courtesy of the work of leading opera designers Harold Marshall and Yasuhisa Toyota. The space, which seats 2,400, offers a wide range of programming, including performances by the resident Orchestre de Paris.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Maison Kitsuné

Maison Kitsuné

In the hip Upper Marais district, the popular fashion label Maison Kitsuné opened its largest Paris outpost in May on the Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire. Stocked with tees, totes and sweatshirts, the shop sits above an inviting 35-seat café with custom-made marble walls and a breezy California vibe. With floor-to-ceiling windows, the café’s rooms were inspired by the paintings of David Hockney.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Laurence Mouton

Guy Savoy

Earlier this year, Michelin-starred chef Guy Savoy moved his signature restaurant from a dark, modern space in the nineteenth arrondissement to a grand space—an intimate series of dining rooms with tall windows revealing stellar Louvre and Seine views—befitting his elegant cuisine. The earthy, artichoke soup with black truffle warrants special mention, as do roasted duck paletot with sweet, bitter, and peppery flavors; and a whole grilled sea bass.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Papier Tigre

Papier Tigre

For all things stationery, head to the minimalist boutique Papier Tigre, the brainchild of three young designers, near the Centre Pompidou. There’s a smartly curated stock of aesthetically pleasing goods, mostly made in France, including stationery, colorful patterned goods, often-changing collaborations with artists, calendars, gift wrap, decorative objects, postcards, scented candles and notebooks. We promise you’ll be inspired to write an actual letter by hand again.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Iwan Baan for Fondation Louis Vuitton / Iwan Baan 2014 – Gehry partners LLP

Fondation Louis Vuitton

In the lush Bois de Boulogne, legendary French fashion house Louis Vuitton opened a contemporary, Frank Gehry–designed structure made of twelve balloon-like glass “sails.” Inside, the Fondation Louis Vuitton’s permanent collection includes pieces from Rothko, Matisse, Koons, and Basquiat. In addition, there’s a rotating series of special exhibitions and a 350-seat auditorium for viewing performances and observing Ellsworth Kelly’s rainbow-colored stage curtain. Outside, get lost in the rooftop gardens overlooking the leafy park and, downstairs, take Instagram-worthy photos amongst Danish artist Olafur Eliasson’s cool mirrored columns.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Lockwood

Lockwood

Opened by the Lehoux brothers (the duo behind hip spots like Ten Belles), Lockwood starts its days as a coffee shop with wooden tables stocked with beans from local, artisanal roasters and an assortment of sweets. In the evenings, however, it transforms into a cozy cocktail bar that invites you to sip aperitifs, a wide range of whiskeys, and cocktails like the Penicillin (whiskey, honey, lemon, and ginger). Downstairs, rotating cocktails are mixed and paired neatly with easy-going dry meat platters, hamburgers, and quesadillas.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts

Le 8 Iéna at Shangri-La Hotel

At the elegant Shangri-La Hotel Paris, under the helm of new executive chef Christophe Moret, a seasonal outdoor courtyard called Le 8 Iéna is a great place to spend an afternoon. Inside this hidden spot, sip refreshing cocktails with small plates that include bright salads (think classic niçoise) and light French and Asian dishes like beef and chicken satay. Under Moret’s helm, there’s a range of lovely vegetarian options including green-pea carpaccio and of course, everything pairs well with a sparkling flute of Champagne or crisp Sancerre.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Danielle Rubi

Hero

Three-level Korean food haven and canteen Hero (you can’t miss the pink-neon signage) is outfitted with natural wood, handcrafted lanterns, hand-painted wallpaper, and a freshly minted outdoor terrace. The menu includes crispy fried chicken (yangnyeom) with one of three sauces that range in heat, fluffy pork buns, a roasted pork-rib sandwich, and kimchi macaroni and cheese. On the drinks list, there are natural wines and cocktails made with homemade lemongrass syrup, fresh-squeezed lime juice, and the Korean beer Hite. Later, you can opt for shots of soju.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Steel Cyclewear and Coffee Shop

Steel Cyclewear and Coffee Shop

On a quiet, discreet street in the eleventh arrondissement, the grown-up bicycle shop (from the in-the-know founder of the French-English lifestyle magazine Steel) allows both amateur and advanced cyclers to meet for group rides. Afterwards, the niche storefront becomes an extended place to sip specialty coffee and snack on lemon poppy cake and breakfast muesli. The airy, light-filled space offers a bevy of stylish gear like helmets and clothing from around the globe.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Palais Galliera; Photo by Di Messina

Palais Galliera

The city’s most fashion-forward museum, Palais Galliera, Musée de la Mode, emerged from an extensive makeover in September 2013 that made it more stylish than ever. Only open during temporary exhibitions, the grand structure was formerly the nineteenth-century palace of Marie Brignole-Sale, Duchess of Galliera. Popular past exhibitions have focused on costume design, fashion history and iconic French designers including Jeanne Lanvin and Azzedine Alaïa. This November will see the opening of a show dedicated to Elisabeth, Countess Greffulhe, an icon of the Belle Époque through the Roaring Twenties.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

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Paris’s 10 Best New Boutiques

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PHOTO: Roberta Valerio

The world’s most beautiful city, Paris also possesses the world’s most thrilling shopping, where famed international names mingle with small, made-in-France labels known only to Parisians and the privileged few. With exciting new boutiques opening all the time, it’s a challenge to keep up. Here we offer a black-book selection of ten of the newest must-sees—offering everything from luxury bags to gourmet delights—so you can shop Paris like a pro.

By Jennifer Ladonne

PHOTO: Chez Paulie and me…Paris

Paulie and me

The union between New Yorker Paul Chambel and Paris fashion veteran Lilia Chambel resulted in a beautiful two-year-old son and the exciting new concept store Paulie and me. A marriage of New York City cool and Parisian chic, the store is a handpicked treasure trove of young A-list designer clothes, bags, jewelry, shoes, accessories, and more.

Must-buy jewelry includes Clara Jasmine’s lace-print cuff bracelets, rings, and necklaces in 24-carat-gold-plated copper; delicate chain necklaces and bracelets by Sweety Jane; and Marion Godart’s sculptural, jewel-laden necklaces in brilliant colors. You’ll also find lightweight leather totes, super-stylish shoes by the Brazilian label Cavage (unique to the shop), and huge limited-edition scarves in featherweight cashmere by Maison Passage. Don’t miss the 50-percent-off corner!

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Roberta Valerio

L/Uniform

The mission is to elevate the humble canvas bag to the status of a fashion essential. L/Uniform’s gleaming new minimalist boutique, on the fashionable quai Malaquais, showcases the label’s classic collection of chic, streamlined bags in durable cotton-linen canvas. Light, sturdy, and fortified with colorful piping and leather handles, the bags—which range from laptop carriers to ample travel sizes—make an excellent alternative to leather and can be personalized with monograms and limitless colors.

The sleek No. 11 carryall can work as a market tote or a chic handbag, and the No. 2 schoolbag, a style favored by Parisian kids, is as adorable as it is versatile. You can choose from a range of canvas, piping, and monogram colors for variations that make the bag, manufactured artisanally in the beautiful perched village of Carcassonne in southern France, entirely your own.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Philippe HUGONNARD

Mesdemoiselles Madeleines

Though French to its tender core, the homey gateau immortalized by Proust has of late been upstaged by the flashy macaron. Thanks to Mesdemoiselles Madeleines, the buttery, shell-shaped sponge cake is making a comeback. Traditionally served nature or flecked with orange or a sprinkling of ground almonds, Mesdemoiselles Madeleines’ sophisticated versions come in more than three-dozen flavors—sweet, savory, or crowned with a cream-filled dome.

The teatime pastry is exciting enough to star at any meal. Take Apolline, flavored with grapefruit zest and a Sicilian pistachio-cream-filled dome, or Maxime, a mix of Rhône Valley raspberries lightly perfumed with Moroccan rose. Savory versions come in basil, lemon, and feta cheese topped with pignoli nuts or red onion and crème fraîche with chives. The cakes come in several sizes and can be purchased individually or mixed and matched.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Coutesy of Borgo delle Tovaglie

Borgo delle Tovaglie

Set in a soaring loft space in the city’s up-and-coming 11th arrondissement, on the edge of the upper Marais, the new home concept store Borgo delle Tovaglie reflects the neighborhood’s stylish boho vibe. A fabulous array of essentials for the home awaits you, including sheets, pillows, tablecloths, curtains, and other classic items in Borgo’s luscious Italian linen and dreamy seasonal colors: Caribbean blue, mint, stone, graphite, lavender, coral.

Both classic and contemporary, the store is an eclectic mix of old-world quality and up-to-date chic, with a collection of one-off lighting, unbreakable melamine dishes in yummy colors to harmonize with your table linens, and stylish printed throw pillows and rugs. The in-store café is a neighborhood favorite, the perfect spot for a plate of artisanal charcuterie and a glass of wine or an espresso and a homemade dessert.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Le Bon Marché

Le Bon Marché – Le Soulier

Your reasons for rushing to Le Bon Marché have just multiplied with the unveiling of the famous left-bank department store’s glamorous new Le Soulier shoe salon. The soaring new space, set under a nineteenth-century glass ceiling, highlights a list of crème-de-la-crème designers and plenty of new names to discover. Small salons dedicated to haute couture stars Chanel, Céline, Prada, Jimmy Choo, Valentino, Balenciaga, and Tods open out onto a floor space dressed with comfy modern sofas for maximum trying-on comfort.

The contemporary designer space offers the latest from Dries Van Noten, Lavin, Nicholas Kirkwood, Proenza Schouler, Chloé, and Givenchy, and the “creative spirit” section underscores edgy young designs from the likes of Markus Lupfer, Play Comme des Garçons, Golden Goose, Band of Outsiders, and Isabel Marant. It’s one-stop shoe shopping excellence.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Louboutin Cosmetics

Louboutin Cosmetics

Glamorous women can now match their talons to their soles—the famous fire engine-red immortalized by the designer’s mile-high stilettos is the star of his new boutique beauté. Set in the historic nineteenth-century covered passage Vero Dodat, where Christian Louboutin got his start, the tiny boutique resembles a shrine to the hallowed “Rouge Louboutin” along with thirty other high-fashion shades of nail polish.

The lacquer comes in a faceted jewel-like bottle with a gleaming 8-inch cap, the exact height of his famously vertiginous shoes. At €45 a bottle, it’s not cheap, but two layers of Louboutin’s gloss is said to equal twenty coats of the regular stuff. Think of it as an investment. The men’s and women’s shoe boutiques are right next-door for easy mixing and matching.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Verbreuil

Verbreuil

Opened in January, Verbreuil’s new jewel-box of a boutique, two steps from the Luxembourg Gardens, offers a gorgeous new take on the luxury handbag. Designed by a mother and her three daughters, the bags anticipate a chic Parisian’s every desire, combining elegance, sophistication, and staying power in each of the six ultra-sleek silhouettes. The bags’ timeless architecture has a vintage feel brought up to date with high-tech details meticulously engineered for the utmost beauty and functionality.

The Canoun, in crocodile with a buttery calfskin interior, has three pockets for day and a removable strap to seamlessly transform into an evening clutch. The streamlined Duo, Verbreuil’s take on the tote, is ample enough for a small computer or tablet, yet refined enough to go anywhere, anytime. Handcrafted in France by skilled artisans, the bags are small marvels of design know-how, combining top-quality skins (crocodile, python, calf) with a pared-down aesthetic that’s unmistakably luxe.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Jérôme Dreyfuss

Jérôme Dreyfuss

Jérôme Dreyfuss’s spirited handbags have graced the arms of chic Parisians since 2002. Though the designer introduced his shoe collection in spring 2013, his first boutique dedicated to shoes just opened in April, at 1 rue Jacob on the city’s storied left bank. In keeping with Dreyfuss’s signature bohemian chic outlook, the shoes run the gamut from high-glamour pumps in pretty flower-print toile to jaunty red suede moccasins and studded black suede booties with towering stilettos.

The flat Wanda sandal’s hippy-chic design is pure Dreyfuss: a braided-leather thong and cut-leather band that comes in five scrumptious colors, including orange, forest green, and pale pink. Sneakers in metallic python or tie-dyed lambskin are this season’s standouts. Match them with a bag from his flagship boutique across the street at No. 4.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Courtesy of Papier Tigre

Papier Tigre

For those who still relish putting pen to paper, Papier Tigre’s sophisticated and colorful take on stationary, cards, notebooks, and all things paper will bring joy to your heart. The Paris papeterie combines a fresh aesthetic with plenty of whimsy in cards with messages like bisous (kisses), original revolving calendars that list each month’s seasonal fruits and veggies in French and English, and a do-it-yourself family tree with apertures for four generations of photographs and slots for names and dates.

There’s also dreamy scented candles and sachets for closets, drawers, and suitcases by Kerzon, pens and notebooks by Moleskine, embroidered jewelry by Macon & Lesquoy, framed artwork, bags, and even nail polish. Its central location near Les Halles, the Centre Pompidou, and the lively rue de Montmartre shopping mecca make it a convenient place to drop in

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

PHOTO: Pierre Luc Baron Moreau

Perrin

This fifth-generation glove-making family launched its first handbag collection in 2006 to resounding success. With the opening of a gorgeous new boutique in February, Perrin cinches its place as one of Paris’s most exciting small handbag and accessories brands. A stone’s throw from the Tuilerie Gardens, the opulent new boutique provides a fitting backdrop for a glamorous collection of ultra-contemporary clutches.

Fashioned in a variety of rainbow-hued leathers and fitted with bracelets or glove-like handles in leather or metal for better, well, clutching, the bags recall the company’s glove-making origins while confidently expressing their own flair. Irresistible models in fox fur or stingray complement even the most elegant outfit. If clutch bags aren’t your thing, check out the fabulous ball bag in sky-blue crocodile or the sleek Hobo Baggala in supple leather and a crocodile shoulder strap. There’s also a line of chic sunglasses and a delicious selection of buttery, handmade gloves in calf, crocodile, or goatskin.

PLAN YOUR TRIP: Visit Fodor’s Paris Travel Guide

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Summer 2015 Guide to Paris

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Paris

Paris flings open its doors to an easy, breezy summer in its great urban landscape this season. City terraces, parks, and quayside spots are ideal for dining al fresco, picnicking over an outdoor concert or movie, walking, biking, or lounging on a green chair in the Luxembourg Gardens. Here’s a selection of events and activities en plein air to get you out both day and night.

Exhibitions

Dirty Corner by Kapoor

In summer’s must-see exhibit, English sculptor Anish Kapoor takes on Versailles’ formal gardens as his workspace, using the classical fountains and parterres in imaginative, surprising, and disorienting ways through five installations scattered throughout the landscape—including a fountain whirlpool and a stupendous Sky Mirror—and a sixth in the historic Jeu de Paume (through November 1).

While in the gardens, check out Escales dans les jardins de Versailles, featuring 80 artworks of the palace gardens created by people with autism.

Summer Festivals

Cinema en Plein Air

A roster of international musicians, actors, and dancers convene at quartier d’été, Paris’s most expansive summer arts festival (July 14–August 9), set in more than 30 indoor and outdoor venues around the city. On July 14, choreographer Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker’s Violin Phase (free), set to the music of Steve Reich, will be performed at the Saint-Eustach church.

The 24th edition of Classique au Vert (August 1–September 13), Paris’s premier outdoor classical music festival, held in the Bois de Vincennes’ exquisite Parc Floral, features world-class performers in more than fifteen open-air concerts. Picnic under the trees to the dulcet strains of the Ensemble Orchestra of Paris, Vincent Peirani, or the Pelléas Orchestra for a mere €6 admission to the park.

For more than 20 years, La Villette’s vast lawn has hosted Paris’s biggest movie screen in what has become a major summer event. This year, Cinéma en Plein Air will screen 25 films by the likes of Scorsese, Hitchcock, Miyazaki, and Polanski (many in English) for rapt moviegoers picnicking under the stars. Admission is €7; July 22–August 23.

Since 2003, Rock en Seine has been Paris’s most hotly anticipated rock festival, where the crème de la crème of rock talent convene in one of Paris’s most spectacular gardens. This year, more than 60 artists, including The Offspring, The Libertines, Marina and the Diamonds, The Chemical Brothers, and My Morning Jacket, will ignite five stages (August 28–30). Tickets sell out fast, so plan ahead!

Outdoor Dining

La 8 Iena

Michelin–starred chef Christophe Moret designed the menu at La 8 Iena, a stylish outdoor terrace in the heart of the beautiful Shangri-La hotel, where you’ll find a summery spread of fresh salads, plenty of vegetables, grilled meats, and refreshing drinks. Come for lunch, dinner, or a snack and a chilled glass of Champagne.

Attached to deeply hip concept store The Broken Arm, a bright little café excels in quick and delicious gourmet snacks, light meals, and very good coffee. A wide sidewalk terrace across from a charming Parisian park makes it a perfect outdoor stop while exploring the Marais.

Ralph's

On the leafy boulevard Saint-Germain, Ralph Lauren’s elegant boutique houses Paris’s prettiest outdoor garden café, Ralph’s, with a sophisticated menu to boot. Set among the splendid boutiques of the 6th and 7th arrondissements, it’s a great spot for a tranquil reprieve between shopping forays.

Prepare a Picnic

What are summers for if not for picnics? Grab a prepared meal on the go or find all the makings for your own al fresco feast. La Grande Épicerie is the city’s largest gourmet grocer and part of Le Bon Marché department store (7th arrondissement). Elsewhere, the newly opened La Maison Plisson is a thrilling way to sample the best of French regional delicacies, from fruit and veggies to charcuterie, cheese, pastries, and bread (Marais, 3rd arrondissement).

Outdoor Fun

There’s no time like summer to catch cool breezes off the water while taking in Paris’s top sights. Whether it’s day or night, a romantic candlelight dinner or fun with the kids, these companies offer an array of cruises to suit every taste. Vedettes du Pont Neuf offers a wide range of cruises with smaller boats and easy access. Bateaux-Mouches provides state-of-the-art tours from glass-enclosed boats, and the wonderful Batobus allows you to hop on and off at nine of the city’s top destinations all day long for €10 (€7 for kids).

Add sun and 5,000 tons of sand and you’ve got the thirteenth Paris Plages, the urban version of the Riviera on the Seine. Concerts, pop-up cafés, exercise classes, dance events, and more make for a dreamy summer on the beach.

In the beautiful Tuileries Garden, in the very heart of Paris, there’s summer fun for the whole family at the Fête Foraine des Tuileries (June 27–August 23). The carnival boasts more than 60 attractions including 20 different rides for kids of all ages, like the famous Ferris wheel and a French double-decker carousel.

Party at a Château

Chateau de Versailles' Grandes Eaux Nocturnes

For an unforgettable evening spent in unparalleled splendor, Vaux le Vicomte’s Candlelight Evenings illuminate the château and grounds with 2,000 candles. At evening’s end, visitors are treated to a spectacular fireworks display that can be viewed from the estate’s many glorious vistas. Visitors can also enjoy an elegant gourmet dinner on the terrace facing the château at Les Charmilles restaurant, or Champagne and macarons on the Terrasse du bénitier.

Along with the Château de Versailles’ Grandes Eaux Nocturnes, a spectacle of lights, color, and fireworks, the palace hosts a range of events incorporating music and dance. Les Nuits de l’Orangerie features a production of the ballet Romeo and Juliet, and the Sérénade Royal de la Galerie des Glaces recreates a Sun King-style ball complete with period music and costumes.

Attention Shoppers!

Let the hunting begin! The famous Paris soldes (sales) begin on June 24, when the grands magasins Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, and Le Bon Marché open their doors at 8 am sharp. Every boutique in Paris will be offering anywhere from 20–60 percent off retail prices.

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Fall 2015 Guide to Paris

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A cultural cornucopia awaits visitors to Paris this fall, especially for travelers looking for something a little off the beaten path. Two top-tier museums will reopen after multi-year renovations as part of an exciting new season of festivals, top-notch art exhibitions, and the city’s leading food and wine events. There’s plenty to inspire a last-minute trip if you haven’t booked already!

New Museums

Musee de l'Homme PAris

Esteemed as much for research and scholarship as for its stupendous collections, the Musée de l’Homme—in the iconic Palais de Chaillot—reopens on October 17 after a six-year total overhaul. New state-of-the-art displays focus on the question, “What does it means to be human?” Exhibitions are filled with the museum’s priceless artifacts, including everything from the 20,000-year-old Venus of Lespugue to Descartes’ skull. There’s something fascinating for all ages here, plus an enticing restaurant and a gift shop.

Musee de Parfum Paris

This beautiful new Musée de Parfum Paris (free admission) is dedicated to the art and history of perfume making. Opened by the Costa family, founders of the renowned Grasse-based perfumer Fragonard, the museum tells the story of French perfume through historic objects and the family’s own vast collection of art objects, vials and bottles, distilleries, and more, many exhibited for the first time. You’ll want to linger in the museum shop where knowledgeable guides offer samples to help you find the perfect fragrance.

Not-to-Miss Exhibitions

Wifredo Lam

A pioneer in surrealist art and a friend of Picasso and Braque, Wifredo Lam is considered one of the leading lights of modernist painting. He was influenced by surrealism, magical realism, modernism, postmodernism, and Afro-Cuban symbolism, and an exhibition of his work at the Centre Pompidou (September 30–February 15) takes a welcome new look at this artist who transcended cultural boundaries.

The Grand Palais is hosting the first retrospective (September 23–January 11 devoted to the extraordinary artist Elisabeth Louis Vigée le Brun, who began her career in the courts of Louis XV, where she painted his fashionable wife, Marie Antoinette, and his children. Vigée le Brun triumphed over the limitations of a modest background and the usual constraints of her gender to become one of the most accomplished and celebrated portraitists of eighteenth- and nineteenth-century Paris.

It’s an excellent time to discover, or rediscover, one of Paris’s hidden gems. Now through February 14, the superb Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature features two extraordinary exhibitions. In one, there are twenty canvases by the American painter Walton Ford (created for the exhibition) that play on the tradition of academic zoological painting with irony, humor, and the artist’s singular vision. In the other, wildlife photographer George Shiras presents a sublime and magical world of animal life at at night.

Arts Festivals

A hotly anticipated fall event, each year the Festival d’Automne assembles a world-class roster of performers in contemporary dance, theater, performance, art, cinema, and music in venues in and around Paris. There’s everything from jazz performances by La Monte Young in the soaring Saint-Eustache church to the Trisha Brown dance company performing at the National Theatre de Chaillot. Find a detailed calendar of events and ticketing online.

Gathering all the top names in contemporary art, this year’s FIAC (Foire Internationale d’Art Contemporaine) runs from October 21–25 at the Grand Palais and several other venues around town including the Tuilerie Gardens, Place Vendôme, and the Jardin des Plantes. The festival also features a schedule of performances, films, and lectures.

Food Festivals

Each fall, Paris hosts a roster of irresistible events around food and wine. This city is the world epicenter of chocolate, and the Salon du Chocolat (October 28–November 1) presents and awards the world’s greatest chocolatiers. The yearly Fêtes des Vendanges de Montmartre (November 7–11), a five-day blowout party celebrating the grape harvest at Paris’s last producing vineyards on the heights of Montmartre, features music, dancing, children’s events, beekeeping and winemaking classes, fireworks, tastings and the introduction of the 2014 cuvee. And then, for four glorious days, wine lovers can taste to their hearts content the great appellations from every corner of France, including bio and natural wines, at the Paris edition of the Salon des Vins des Vignerons Indépendents (November 26–30). A small admission price gets you a tasting glass and free reign of more than 325 winemakers, plus plenty of French regional delicacies for a delicious lunch or dinner break.

A Notable New Boutique

Le Bon Marche

Indulge your inner shoe fetishist at Paris’s chicest department store. Le Bon Marché’s new L’Espace Souliers, a designer-shoe salon, is the latest mecca for the very best in women’s French and European shoe design. The soaring, skylit space assembles hundreds of shoes, including pairs that are personalized and made-to-measure.

A Hot New Hotel

Les Bains Paris

It took the newly opened Les Bains about a nanosecond to become the hottest spot in the Marais. With a chic bar, restaurant, spa, in-hotel fashion boutique, stylish rooms, and parties every night, you hardly need to leave the premises. Ask for a room with a terrace or an outdoor shower, a first in the city.

Delicious Eats

La Maison Plisson

Speaking of the Marais, the wonderful new Maison Plisson is the place to go for a quick bite, take-home gourmet meal, or simply to see and be seen. A gourmet grocer on one side and a stylish café on the other, you’ll find an excellent handpicked selection of the best French delicacies, from jams and chocolate to Champagne, foie gras, and fresh produce. The café, with its huge outdoor terrace, serves delicious warm dishes, cold salads, gourmet sandwiches, natural wines and juices, and desserts, all reasonably priced considering the neighborhood.

Nearby, the new gastropub Rosemary has all the best French-inflected, gourmet British comfort food. Everything is chic yet totally unpretentious, and the staff is friendly and eager to please. Order a Pimm’s classic cocktail or a hand-pulled Siren craft brew to go with your house-pickled trout or beef Wellington. Great-value prix-fixe menus for lunch and dinner make this a bargain to boot.

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